Saturday, June 15, 2013

Leipzig, day 1

My hotel is directly across from the Universitat Leipzig. Down the road  a a short walk across Augustus Platz and through a shopping disict is the Auerbachs Keller where Goethe staged his famous debate. I'm sitting there now. I was expecting more beer hall than big dining room, but I think I'll be OK. They have a few beers on tap, and I'm trying what I think is going to be wild boar sausage with sides. Specifically: Wildschweinbraten MIT Pilzfrikassee, Rotkohl, rohen Kartoffelklossen, und Kroketten. I'm having the Ur-Krostitzer dark to drink. 

The travel getting here was a little convoluted. Flights into Leipzig were completely full, Frankfurt, too, so some of my colleagues and I flew into Dusseldorf and took some trains. The fast train from Dusseldorf to Hanover was excellent. We changed inHanover to a regular intercity train headed for Leipzing, but learned that we'd have to change in Magdeberg to a local train to go around the flooding further down the line. The Hanover train was old and hot, but the local was brand new and appropriately cooled. 

The beer, having arrived, is smooth and dark brown with a fine foam and thickish mouthfeel. Vey malty and a little sour. Very tasty. 

Of course, braten means braised, and so I have a braised saddle of wild boar with mushrooms which is fantastic. The red cabbage and beet sauerkraut is a great accompaniment, the croquettes are tasty, and there's a spongy sphere of I know not what (it's dumpling).